| THIS WEEK'S FEATURES AND RECIPES:
> Article: It’s Soup:
Vegetables, Herbs, Water
> Wine Appreciation:
BearBoat Chardonnay 2008
> Food Funnies: Signs
a TV Chef Has Finally Lost It
S
E L E C T E D R E C I P E S :
* Macaroni
Grill Pasta Di Pollo
* Pork
Roast With Pineapple and Carrots
* Beef
Kwangton
* Meatloaf
with Sweet and Sour Sauce
* Sauteed
Trout with Pecans
* Sausage-Stuffed
Mushrooms
* Spicy
Sweet Potatoes
* Apple
Tart
Healthy Eating:
Low Carb: Rueben
Casserole
Diabetic: Lemon
Meringue Pie
Low Fat: Low
Fat Pumpkin Custard
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This Week's Cooking Tips
Baking Tips:
* When whipping heavy cream always
whip in a stainless steel bowl.
Aluminum bowls will cause
the cream to turn grayish in color and
the cream will taste metallic.
* Self rising flour is a mixture
of 1-1/2 teaspoons of baking powder
plus 1/2 teaspoon of salt
per cup flour.
* Use one Tablespoon (3 teaspoons)
of regular active dry yeast to
replace cake yeast in recipes.
* When making a cake, have all of
your ingredients at room
temperature.
* You should leave 2 inches of space
between the oven walls and your
baking sheet for good circulation.
* Substitute 3/4 cup cocoa (unsweetened)
and 1/4 cup Crisco for
4 squares (ounces) of chocolate.
More Cooking Tips
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This Week's Culinary Quiz (Answer
at the bottom of page)
Which woman patented
her hand crank freezer in 1846, thus
making the process of making
ice cream much easier?
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Quote of the Week:
"A diet that consists
predominantly of rice leads to the
use of
opium, just as a diet that consists predominantly
of potatoes
leads to the use of liquor."
- Friedrich
Nietzsche
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UPCOMING FOOD HOLIDAYS:
September is: National Biscuit Month
National Chicken Month
National Cholesterol Awareness Month
National Honey Month
National Mushroom Month
National Organic Harvest Month
National Papaya Month
National Rice Month
September 4 - National Macadamia Nut Day
September 5 - National Cheese Pizza Day
September 6 - National Coffee Ice Cream Day
September 7 - National Napoleon Day
September 8 - National Date-Nut Bread Day
September 9 - National Steak au Poivre Day
September 10 - National Hot Dog Day
September 11 - National Hot Cross Bun Day
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It’s Soup: Vegetables,
Herbs, Water
By Mark Bittman
Late summer is not just a good time
to make soup, it’s quite
possibly the ideal time. With ultraripe
vegetables, abundant herbs
and a secret ingredient (O.K., water),
you’re pretty much set.
For those who find this surprising,
let me say that there may be
more misconceptions about making
soup than about any other cooking
procedure. To name just three:
- It takes forever.
- You can’t make it without
stock.
- It’s best made with scraps
and bones.
- It comes out of a can.
All right, four.
A little debunking is in order.
There are cultures in which nearly
every full meal begins with soup,
and few of those soups contain
stock or take more than a half-hour
to make. In its most basic form,
a soup might contain only water,
garlic, egg and toasted bread (and
be delicious).
I’m as fond of stock-based soup
as the next guy. It’s just that
using a lack of stock as a reason
for not making soup is a mistake.
It isn’t "good" soup that’s based
on stock, but only what might be
called "fine", elite or restaurant-style
soup, like a consommé.
As for scraps and bones: Very early
in my cooking and writing
relationship with the chef Jean-Georges
Vongerichten, I asked him
about this in a fashion that showed
that I had been misguided. He
said: "If you want your soup to
taste like scraps and bones, use
scraps and bones. If you want it
to taste like meat and vegetables,
use meat and vegetables."
So, start with great ingredients.
In a very real way, the minestrone
here is the absolute quintessential
late-summer all-vegetable,
no-stock soup. If you take good
vegetables, caramelize them a bit in
oil (those browned bits create a
lot of complex flavor), then seal
the deal with water and herbs, you
can hardly go wrong.
Some other examples:
Sear cauliflower florets, add garlic
and red pepper flakes, then
water; cook until tender, then serve
with a little more oil, maybe a
dusting of cheese. Cook potatoes
and leeks, add water, chill; you
have vichyssoise. Whir some tomatoes,
pepper, shallots or mild
onions, bread, oil and a little
vinegar in a blender; that’s
gazpacho. (So is a mix of vegetables
and herbs roasted or sautéed
in olive oil and puréed or
chilled.)
And if you want to make any of these
admittedly simple soups more
special, you have a secret weapon
at this time of year, one that
takes a tenth of the time it does
to make a stock.
It’s called an herb purée,
better known as pesto. A little of it
can transform any soup into something
slightly magical.
Make the purée with basil,
parsley or a combination of fresh herbs
that may include marjoram, oregano,
dill or small amounts of thyme,
sage or rosemary, plus a little
oil (or even water), garlic, nuts
and cheese. At a time when basil
and parsley are nearly guaranteed
to be local, cheap and perfumey,
why not?
As for canned soup, it’s good for
after-school snacks. Just not
for grown-up meals.
Late Summer Minestrone
===================
1/4 cup extra virgin
olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 carrots, cut into
1/2-inch dice
2 zucchini, cut into
1/2-inch dice
1 cup fresh corn (about
two ears)
1 cup fresh green beans,
trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
Salt and freshly ground
black pepper
1 cup cored, chopped
tomato (canned is fine; include juice)
1/2 cup chopped basil
leaves, more for garnish
Freshly grated Parmesan
cheese for serving, optional
Put 3 tablespoons oil in a large,
deep saucepan or casserole over
medium-high heat. When hot, add
onion, carrots and zucchini. Cook,
stirring, until onion softens and
vegetables begin to caramelize,
10 minutes or so.
Add corn and beans; sprinkle with
salt and pepper. Cook, stirring,
for a minute or two, then add 6
cups water and tomato; bring to a
boil, then adjust heat so mixture
bubbles gently. Cook, stirring
every now and then, until vegetables
are fairly soft and tomatoes
broken up, about 15 minutes.
Add 1/2 cup basil and adjust heat
once again so mixture simmers.
Cook until all vegetables are very
tender, 5 to 15 minutes longer.
Taste and adjust seasoning, drizzle
with remaining olive oil, and
serve, passing basil and cheese
at table.
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looking your best in the kitchen!
Personalized Aprons, Chef Hats, and
Chef Coats
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This Week's Wine Selection
BearBoat Chardonnay 2008
Price: $15
Made in a Chablis style, this Chardonnay
is bone dry and crisp in
acidity. The pineapple and peach
flavors are integrated with stony
minerals. It's not a complex wine,
but is super-clean and zesty.
Serve With:
Braised Chicken with Tomatoes and
Olives
=================================
1 pound tomatoes (3
to 4 medium), cut into wedges
1 large onion, cut
into wedges, leaving root ends intact
1/2 cup drained brine-cured
black olives, pitted if desired
4 large garlic cloves,
sliced, plus 1 teaspoon minced
3 tablespoons olive
oil, divided
2 teaspoons herbes
de Provence, divided
1/2 teaspoon fennel
seeds
1 whole chicken (about
3 1/2 pound)
Preheat convection oven to 400F
for regular oven to 425F with rack
in middle. Toss together tomatoes,
onion, olives, sliced garlic,
2 tablespoons oil, 1 teaspoon herbes
de Provence, fennel seeds,
1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon
pepper in a 13- by 9-inch or
other 3-quart shallow baking dish.
Push vegetables to sides of dish
to make room for chicken.
Stir together minced garlic, 1 teaspoon
salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper,
remaining teaspoon herbes de Provence,
and remaining tablespoon
olive oil. Remove excess fat from
chicken and pat dry, then rub
inside and out with seasoning mixture.
Tie legs together with string,
then put chicken in baking dish.
Roast until an instant-read thermometer
inserted into thickest part
of a thigh (do not touch bone) registers
170F, about 1 hour in
convection oven; 1 to 1 1/4 hours
in regular oven. Let chicken stand
10 minutes before carving. Serve
with vegetables and pan juices.
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FOOD FUNNIES: Signs a TV
Chef Has Finally Lost It
9. He demonstrates the proper technique
for tenderizing a veal
cutlet while wearing
a dominatrix outfit and using a whip.
8. "Today on ‘Chopped’ the contestants
are in for a special
challenge as they open
their entree baskets and find duck
eggs, arugula, and
human fingers."
7. "It is critical the carrots be
approached from their blind
side so as not to startle
them."
6. Adam Richman becomes the key proponent
of fasting.
5. Rachael Ray hosts a special on
crock pots.
4. The theme song ends with "umm
bork bork bork."
3. Demands that his show, "Cooking
With Wine" be renamed "Cooking
With Prune Juice."
2. The Iron Chef challenger uses
the same iron - a clothing iron
- for grilling paninis
AND for braining the judges when he loses.
... and the #1 Sign a TV Chef Has
Finally Lost It ...
1. Anthony Bourdain declines the
vintage Bordeaux in favor of
a Diet Coke.
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Macaroni Grill Pasta Di Pollo
======================
Pasta:
1/2 stick butter
1/2 cup red onions,
diced
1/2 cup pancetta, drained
and chopped
1 tablespoon garlic,
chopped
3/4 cup green onion,
tops only
3/4 pound sliced grilled
chicken
2 pounds farfalle (bow-tie
pasta), cooked
8 ounces heavy whipping
cream
1 tablespoon chopped
parsley
Asiago Sauce:
4 cups heavy whipping
cream
1/8 teaspoon paste
or dried chicken base
1 1/4 cups asiago cheese
1 tablespoon cornstarch
2 ounces water
To make the sauce, heat cream to
very hot and just bubbly (but not
a boil). Add chicken base and cheese.
Stir constantly with a wire
whisk and bring temperature back
to just bubbly. Dissolve cornstarch
in the cold water and add to sauce.
Bring to a slow simmer to cook
out starch. Transfer sauce to a
container, cover and refrigerate
until needed.
Saute red onion in butter for a
few seconds then add pancetta and
garlic. Add chicken, green onions
and pasta. Deglaze the pan with
the cream. Add asiago cream sauce.
Heat thoroughly. Garnish with
parsley and serve.
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Pork Roast With Pineapple and Carrots
===============================
For Marinade:
2 cups Italian salad
dressing
1 tablespoon granulated
garlic
2 teaspoons onion powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon balsamic
vinegar
For the roast:
1 (3 pound) boneless
pork loin roast
4 tablespoons brown
sugar
1 can pineapple chunks,
drained
3 large carrots, peeled
and sliced 1/2 inch thick
Combine marinade ingredients in
a bowl large enough to accomadate
the pork roast. Mix well and add
the roast. Cover, refrigerate and
marinate overnight. Remove roast
1 hour before cooking.
Preheat oven to 350F. Grease a shallow
roasting pan. Remove roast
from marinade. Discard marinade.
Place the roast in the roasting pan
and surround it with the pineapple
chunks. Spoon a little of the
pineapple juice over the roast and
sprinkle with 2 Tbsps of the brown
sugar. Sprinkle the remaining brown
sugar evenly over the pineapple.
Place in the oven and roast for
1 hour. Add carrots and roast for
another 20 minutes. Let the roast
stand for 20 minutes before
slicing.
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Beef Kwangton
============
1 1/2 tablespoons peanut
oil
1 slice fresh ginger
root, 1/2" thick
1 pound beef, cut in
thin strips
4 ounces bamboo shoots,
sliced
4 ounces button mushrooms,
sliced
3 ounces snow peas
1/2 cup chicken broth
2 tablespoons oyster
sauce
1/2 teaspoon soy sauce
1/4 teaspoon seasame
oil
1/4 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon cornstarch,
mixed with 1/2 teaspoon water
Preheat a wok or frying pan and
add the oil. Add the ginger and stir
to add flavor to the oil. Discard
the ginger and add the beef slices.
Stir fry for about 2 minutes. Add
the bamboo shoots, mushrooms, snow
peas and chicken broth. Cover and
cook for 2 minutes. Stir in oyster
sauce, soy sauce, sesame oil and
sugar. Thicken with the cornstarch
blend and serve immediately with
rice.
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Meatloaf with Sweet and Sour Sauce
=============================
1 1/2 lbs ground beef
1 slice bread (broken
or chopped finely)
1 egg
1 small onion, finely
chopped
1 teaspoon table salt
1/4 teaspoon black
pepper
4 tablespoons ketchup
1/2 cup whole milk
or half-and-half
Sauce:
4 tablespoons apple
cider vinegar
4 tablespoons dark
brown sugar, packed firm
1/2 cup ketchup
Combine meat loaf ingredients and
place into a loaf baking dish.
Smooth out top. Combine sauce ingredients
and pour on top and sides
of meatloaf. Bake at 350F about
1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes or
until done.
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Sauteed Trout with Pecans
=====================
4 trout fillets with
skin
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1/2 cup all-purpose
flour
1 1/4 sticks unsalted
butter, divided
3/4 cup pecans, chopped
2 tablespoons fresh
lemon juice
1/3 cup chopped parsley
Pat fillets dry and rub flesh sides
with cayenne, 1/2 teaspoon salt,
and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper (total).
Dredge in flour.
Heat 1/2 stick butter in a 12-inch
heavy skillet over medium heat
until foam subsides, then cook trout,
skin side down, until skin is
golden-brown, about 4 minutes. Turn
fish over and cook until just
cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes more.
Transfer to a plate with a
slotted spatula and keep warm, loosely
covered with foil.
Pour off butter from skillet and
wipe clean, then cook pecans with
remaining 3/4 stick butter, 1/4
teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon
pepper over medium heat, stirring
occasionally, until golden-brown,
about 2 minutes. Stir in lemon juice
and parsley and spoon over
trout.
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Sausage-Stuffed Mushrooms
=======================
3 Italian hot sausages,
casings removed
1 1/2 teaspoons dried
oregano
1 cup freshly grated
Parmesan cheese (about 3 ounces)
1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire
sauce
1/2 teaspoon garlic
powder
1 8-ounce package cream
cheese, room temperature
1 large egg yolk
Olive oil
24 large (about 2-inch-diameter)
mushrooms, stemmed
1/3 cup dry white wine
Saute sausage and oregano in heavy
large skillet over medium-high
heat until sausage is cooked through
and brown, breaking into small
pieces with back of fork, about
7 minutes. Using slotted spoon,
transfer sausage mixture to large
bowl and cool. Mix in 1/2 cup
Parmesan cheese, Worcestershire
sauce, and garlic powder, then cream
cheese. Season filling with salt
and pepper; mix in egg yolk.
Brush 15x10x2-inch glass baking
dish with olive oil to coat. Brush
cavity of each mushroom cap with
white wine; fill with 1 tablespoon
filling and sprinkle with some of
remaining 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese.
Arrange mushrooms, filling side
up, in prepared dish.
Preheat oven to 350F. Bake uncovered
until mushrooms are tender and
filling is brown on top, about 25
minutes.
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Spicy Sweet Potatoes
=================
3 large sweet potatoes,
peeled and cut into 1 inch cubes
(about 6 cups)
2 tablespoons olive
oil or canola oil
2 tablespoons brown
sugar
1 teaspoon chili powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
pepper
In a zip-top plastic bag, toss potatoes
and oil. Combine remaining
ingredients; add to bag; toss to
coat. Transfer to a greased 11x7
inch baking dish. Bake, uncovered,
at 400F for 40-45 minutes or
until potatoes are tender, stirring
every 15 minutes.
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Apple Tart
========
1 sheet frozen puff
pastry (half of 17.3-ounce package), thawed
3 medium Golden Delicious
apples, peeled, cored, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons (1/4
stick) unsalted butter, melted
3 tablespoons sugar
mixed with 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 cup apricot jam,
melted
Preheat oven to 400F. Line baking
sheet with parchment paper.
Unfold pastry on parchment paper.
Using tines of fork, pierce
1/2-inch border around edge of pastry,
then pierce center all over.
Arrange apples atop pastry in 4
rows, overlapping apple slices and
leaving border clear. Brush apples
with melted butter; sprinkle with
cinnamon sugar. Bake 30 minutes.
Brush melted jam over apples. Bake
tart until golden, about 8 minutes
longer. Serve warm or at room
temperature.
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This Week's Culinary Quiz
Answer: Nancy Johnson
Johnson sold the design and rights
to William Young two years later
for $200. He went on to patent the
"Johnson Patent Ice Cream Freezer",
giving clear credit to its creator.
Jacob Fussell is seen as the first
man to create an industry in
ice-cream production. He was a milk
dealer looking for a new way to
use his cream. He discovered that
he could do so by turning it into
ice cream. His Baltimore factory
utilized icehouses and a larger
version of Johnson’s machine. By
the start of the American Civil War
he had additional ice cream plants
in Boston, New York and Washington.
Despite these advancements it was
not until the 20th century that ice
cream became a nationwide phenomenon.
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