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Volume 18   Number 23

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No. 22   


  THIS WEEK'S FEATURES AND RECIPES:

   > Article: Salads That Declare Their Independence

   > Food Funnies: Signs You’re Not at an Authentic Mexican Restaurant

       S E L E C T E D    R E C I P E S :

    * T.G.I. Friday's Jack Daniel's Grill Glaze
        
    * Spicy Tangerine Beef
        
    * Barbecued Chicken Quarters
        
    * Maple Glazed Pork Loin
        
    * Zesty Grilled Corn
        
    * Asparagus, Ham, and Cheese Melts
        
    * Hash Brown Quiche
        
    * Fresh Strawberry Gelato

     Healthy Eating:

    Low Carb: "Rice" Pudding

    Diabetic: Fruit Muffins

    Low Fat: Corn Dogs

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  This Week's Cooking Tips

 Bored with meatloaf?
 Try these ideas with your basic recipe for a more ethnic flare:

 CHINESE: Add rice, water chestnuts and sweet-and-sour sauce. Or soy
          sauce, green onions and ginger.
 FRENCH: Mix in mushrooms, red wine and pepper. Also, try white wine,
         Dijon mustard and parsley.
 GREEK: Add ground lamb and feta cheese. 
 INDIAN: Add curry powder and crushed garbanzo beans. Or mix in cubed
         potatoes, yogurt and mustard seeds. 
 MEXICAN: Add fresh cilantro and green chilies. Or add white cheese,
          chili powder and cumin. 
 POLISH: Add bacon drippings, dill pickles and hard-boiled eggs. Or
         add horseradish and sour cream. 
 PUERTO RICAN: Add sliced green olives, ham and raisins. Or mix in
               onions, garlic and chopped green bell pepper.
 THAI: Mix in peanuts and hot red peppers. Also, try coconut milk and
       grated lime zest. More Cooking Tips

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  This Week's Culinary Quiz (Answer at the bottom of page)

    In France, the portobello mushroom is known as what? 

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  Quote of the Week:

    "Oysters are the most tender and delicate of all seafoods.
     The stay in bed all day and night. They never work or take
     exercise, are stupendous drinkers, and wait for their meals
     to come to them."

     - Hector Bolitho, "The Glorious Oyster" (1960)

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    UPCOMING FOOD HOLIDAYS:

           June is: National Papaya Month
                    National Fresh Fruit and Vegetables Month
                    National Iced Tea Month
                    National Dairy Month
                    National Seafood Month

            June 5 - National Gingerbread Day
            June 6 - National Applesauce Cake Day 
            June 7 - National Chocolate Ice Cream Day 
            June 8 - National Donut Day 
            June 9 - National Strawberry Rhubarb Pie Day 
            June 10 - National Black Cow Day 
            June 11 - National German Chocolate Day 
            June 12 - National Peanut Butter Cookie Day 

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    Salads That Declare Their Independence
     By MARK BITTMAN

  Meat is not only the centerpiece of most barbecues, but also the
 simplest part. Intensely flavorful to begin with, it is easily made
 more so with rubs, sauces and smoke.

  It's the salads that can be tricky.

  With challenge comes opportunity, and anyone willing to explore the
 riches of the world beyond coleslaw, potato salad and America's
 borders will discover surprising combinations that will be new to
 most if not all cookout guests. Like coleslaw and potato salad, most
 of these are not "salads" in the sense of a bowl of greens and
 dressing, but cold vegetable dishes with both substance and strong
 flavor.

  The advantages of these dishes, perhaps obvious, are myriad: the
 components can almost always be prepared a day or so ahead and
 combined at the last minute. The salads are served cold or at room
 temperature. They are healthy, or at least perceived as being so.
 (Some dressings contain as much fat as a well-marbled steak.) And
 they may use ingredients that just don't appear very often in these
 forms.

  Radish salad, for example, is something you see in various places
 around the world (in the last couple of years, I have been served it
 in similar guises in both Mexico and Turkey), but almost never in
 this country. Salting the radishes first reduces their harshness
 while accenting their crispness. At that point, they can be dressed
 with a traditional vinaigrette or the more tropical (and oil-less)
 version here. The only trick is to slice the radishes thinly. For
 this, a mandoline is best.

  A mandoline is also useful in preparing Mediterranean leek salad,
 which combines a bunch of thinly sliced raw leeks with a quick
 vinaigrette and some tomatoes and cucumber. This dish can be made
 more elaborate with the addition of a handful of chopped black
 olives, either oil-cured or a good variety like calamatas.

  Olives are, of course, the star of tapenade, the delicious,
 intensely flavored paste that also originated in the Mediterranean
 and should be a staple in every household. (Every single time I make
 tapenade I wonder how I live without it in my refrigerator.) Combined
 with chopped tomatoes and basil, it produces what has to be one of
 the best simple summer dishes in existence. The beauty of this dish -
 and of the leek salad as well - is that the tomatoes can be the
 relatively hard early-summer variety, and it will still be great.
 (Later in the summer, layer sliced ripe tomatoes with the tapenade,
 rather than tossing them together.)

  Half a continent and a world away in flavor from tapenade is the
 incredibly rich dairy-based dressing found throughout Eastern Europe,
 a creamy mix of yolks from hard-cooked eggs (the whites are used for
 garnish), sour cream and lemon. This combination is so full-bodied
 that it makes traditional Caesar dressing look thin, so it must be
 used with very sturdy greens, the kind that only rarely make their
 way into salads. Romaine lettuce is good, especially when mixed with
 a variety of bitter greens like endive, escarole, radicchio and
 chicory.

  Back on the lighter side is classic Japanese eggplant salad, unusual
 primarily not for its seasonings (though salads with Asian dressings
 still seem exotic to most non-Asians) but for its cooking method.
 Though the eggplant should be salted, as usual, if it is not
 extremely firm (small ones are almost always better than the common
 globular variety), it is cooked swiftly thereafter with a quick
 immersion in boiling water. Once the eggplant is tender, it is
 chilled, then tossed with a soy sesame dressing.

  In general, these salads take as little work as coleslaw and potato
 salad, or even less, but are clearly far from common afterthoughts.
 In fact, they are so good that they can steal the show: you might
 have to start thinking of meat as the side dish.

  Tomato and Tapenade Salad

  Leek Salad

  Cold Eggplant Salad With Sesame Dressing

  Radish Salad

  Bitter Greens With Sour-Cream Dressing 

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       THE E-COOKBOOKS LIBRARY - 
               ALL YOU NEED TO COOK IT RIGHT!

     Discover our very special collection of over
     100 cookbooks filled with world class recipes ...

       E-Cookbooks Library

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  FOOD FUNNIES: Signs You’re Not at an Authentic Mexican Restaurant
 

 9. The #3 dinner has an enchilada, fried rice, edamame, and a
    spinach salad.

 8. The tamales are wrapped in rice paper.

 7. You notice the chorizo is actually a dozen Slim Jims tied
    together.

 6. The Mariachi band is dressed like the Village People and
    singing "Nacho Man".

 5. When the waiter brings your "Mole", you notice hair and eyes
    in it.

 4. When you yell, "La Migra!" nothing happens.

 3. Chile Relleno is not generally stuffed with sprouts, tofu, and
    bulgur wheat.

 2. The big bell out front?

 ... and the #1 Sign You’re Not at an Authentic Mexican Restaurant ...

 1. Each entree on the menu is an English word with an "o" at
    the end.

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  T.G.I. Friday's Jack Daniel's Grill Glaze
  ==============================
    1 head of garlic
    2 teaspoons olive oil
    2/3 cup water 
    1 cup pineapple juice 
    1/4 cup Kikkoman's teriyaki sauce 
    1 tablespoon soy sauce 
    1 1/3 cups dark brown sugar 
    3 tablespoons lemon juice 
    3 tablespoons minced white onion 
    1 tablespoon Jack Daniel's Whiskey 
    1 tablespoon crushed pineapple 
    1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

  Preheat the oven to 375F. Remove some of the papery skin from the
 garlic head, but do not peel or separate the cloves. Place garlic on
 a sheet of aluminum foil and drizzle olive oil on top. Wrap the garlic
 in the aluminum foil, allowing some room for airflow inside the pocket.
 Roast for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Garlic is done when it is soft to the
 touch. Remove from oven and allow to cool.

  Combine the remaining ingredients in a sauce pan. Squeeze the cooled
 head of garlic to extract the garlic paste and add to sauce pan.
 Discard the garlic skin. Whisk ingredients well and bring to a boil.
 Reduce heat and simmer for about 45 minutes to an hour until thickened
 while whisking occasionally.

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  Spicy Tangerine Beef
  =================
    3 tablespoons soy sauce 
    1 tablespoon cornstarch 
    1 pound flank steak or tri-tip, cut in thin strips on the bias 
    2 tablespoons dry sherry 
    2 tablespoons hoisin sauce 
    2 tablespoons honey 
    1 tablespoon chili sauce 
    2 tablespoons soy sauce 
    1/4 cup freshly squeezed tangerine juice 
    3 tablespoons canola oil 
    2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger 
    3 scallions, chopped 
    1/4 tangerine, zested 
    2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds 

  In a resealable plastic bag combine the soy sauce and cornstarch
 and mix well. Add beef, cover, and let marinate for 20 minutes in
 the refrigerator.

  Whisk together the sherry, hoisin, honey, chili sauce, soy sauce,
 and tangerine juice until completely combined. 

  In large pan or wok, heat oil on high. Add the ginger and beef and
 cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Then add sauce mixture and cook for another
 2 minutes on medium heat until sauce thickens. Serve on warm platter,
 garnish with scallions, tangerine zest and sesame seeds.

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  Barbecued Chicken Quarters
  ======================
    3 cloves garlic, minced 
    2 teaspoons butter 
    1 cup ketchup
    1/4 cup packed brown sugar 
    1/4 cup chili sauce
    2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 
    1/2 tablespoon celery seed 
    1 tablespoon prepared mustard 
    1/2 teaspoon salt 
    1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce
    2 whole chicken, cut into quarters

  In a saucepan, saute the garlic in butter until tender. Add the next
 8 ingredients. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Remove from the
 heat and set aside.

  Preheat the grill to a medium temperature, about 275F preferably
 over hickory and charcoal. Grill the chicken, covered, for 30 minutes,
 turning occasionally. Baste with sauce. Grill 15 minutes longer or
 until juices run clear. Continue basting and turning for another
 15 minutes of cooking. Serve with any extra sauce you set aside for
 dipping. 

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  Maple Glazed Pork Loin
  ===================
    1 (3 lb.) boneless pork loin  
    1 teaspoon ground ginger  
    1/2 teaspoon salt  
    1/2 cup barbecue sauce  
    1/4 cup maple syrup  
    2 teaspoons grated orange rind  

  Rub pork loin with mixture of ginger and salt. Insert meat
 thermometer in the thickest part of the pork loin. Arrange hot coals
 around drip pan in covered grill; place the pork loin fat side up on
 grill rack over drip pan.

  Grill with the lid down for 2-2 1/2 hours or to 170 degrees on meat
 thermometer. Baste frequently with mixture of barbeque sauce, maple
 syrup and orange rind during the last hour of cooking. Remove to
 serving platter and cut into thin slices.

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  Zesty Grilled Corn
  ==============
    1/3 cup butter
    2 tablespoons prepared mustard
    1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
    1/4 teaspoon lemon pepper seasoning
    2 teaspoons prepared horseradish
    6 ears sweet corn, husked

   Preheat grill for medium heat. In a small saucepan, melt butter
 or margarine. Stir in mustard, horseradish, Worcestershire sauce,
 and lemon pepper seasoning.

   Place each ear of corn on a 13x12 inch piece of HEAVY DUTY aluminum
 foil. Drizzle with butter mixture. Wrap loosely, leaving space for
 the expansion of steam, and seal.

   Grill over medium coals for 15 to 20 minutes, or until corn is
 tender. Small ears will take less time, and larger ears may take
 more. Carefully unwrap foil, and serve.

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  Asparagus, Ham, and Cheese Melts
  ============================
    1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan (about 1 1/2 ounces) 
    1/4 cup mayonnaise 
    1 pound thin asparagus 
    4 slices Italian or other white bread 
    2 teaspoons unsalted butter, softened 
    1/4 pound sliced cooked ham 

  Preheat broiler. In a small bowl stir together Parmesan and
 mayonnaise. Trim asparagus to fit bread and arrange asparagus in a
 skillet just large enough to hold it in one layer. Add 1/2 inch
 salted cold water and cook asparagus, covered, over moderately high
 heat 5 minutes, or until just tender. In a colander drain asparagus
 well. 

  Arrange bread on a baking sheet and butter top of each slice. Broil
 bread about 6 inches from heat until golden, about 2 minutes. Turn
 bread over and arrange ham on each slice, folding or trimming to fit
 if necessary. Arrange asparagus on ham and spread with Parmesan
 mixture. Broil sandwiches about 3 inches from heat until golden,
 1 to 2 minutes.

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  Hash Brown Quiche
  ===============
    3 cups, shredded frozen hash browns, thawed and drained 
    4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter, melted 
    3 large eggs, beaten 
    1 cup half-and-half 
    3/4 cup diced cooked ham 
    1/2 cup diced green onions 
    1 cup shredded Cheddar 
    Salt and freshly ground black pepper 

  Preheat oven to 450F. Gently press the drained hash browns between
 paper towels to dry them as best as possible. In a 9-inch pie plate,
 toss the hash browns with the melted butter into the plate. Press
 them into the bottom and up the sides to form a crust. Bake for
 20 to 25 minutes until golden brown and starting to crisp. 

  Meanwhile, in a large mixing bowl, combine the remaining ingredients.
 When the hash brown crust is ready pour the egg mixture over it and
 return to the oven. 

  Lower the oven temperature to 350F and bake for about 30 minutes
 until the quiche is light golden brown on top and puffed.

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  Fresh Strawberry Gelato
  ===================
    3/4 cup sugar
    1 tablespoon cornstarch 
    1 cup whole milk 
    3/4 cup heavy whipping cream 
    2 1/4 cups sliced hulled strawberries 
    2 tablespoons lemon juice

  Stir sugar and cornstarch in heavy medium saucepan. Whisk in milk
 and cream. Whisk over medium heat until gelato base thickens and
 begins to bubble, about 5 minutes. Pour into bowl. Cool over ice,
 stirring occasionally. 

  Puree strawberries in processor. Mix in lemon juice. Chill 3 hours.
 Process in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions.
 Transfer to container. Cover; freeze until firm, at least 3 hours
 and up to 2 days.

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   This Week's Culinary Quiz Answer: Champignon de Paris

  The portobello, or champignon de Paris, is known as having a very
 large top. Common mushrooms, known as button mushrooms, have very
 tight caps that are also very small. The cap on the portobello is
 gigantic. It is big enough that the portobello replaces hamburger
 patties to make portobello burgers, and it can replace bread to
 make a mushroom sandwich.

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