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Volume 13   Number 17        No. 9    No. 8    No. 7    No. 6    No. 5    No. 4    No. 3    No. 2    No. 1

No. 16    No. 15    No. 14    No. 13    No. 12    No. 11    No. 10

  THIS WEEK'S FEATURES AND RECIPES:

   > Article: Last Braise of the Season

   > Wine Appreciation: R Wines Darby and Joan Chardonnay 2008

   > Food Funnies: Signs You Aren’t Particularly Handy in the Kitchen

       S E L E C T E D    R E C I P E S :

    * TGI Friday's Lemon Chicken Scaloppini
        
    * Asian Barbecued Spareribs
        
    * Bourbon Beef Tenderloin 
        
    * Stuffed Bacon Cheeseburgers
        
    * Seared Scallops with Tarragon-Butter Sauce
        
    * Homestyle Potato Salad
        
    * Falafel with Cilantro Yogurt
        
    * Toasted Almond Parfait

     Healthy Eating:

    Low Carb: Belgian Waffles

    Diabetic: Chocolate Cheesecake

    Low Fat: Pasta with Blue Cheese Sauce

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  This Week's Cooking Tips
  ========================

  With summer approaching, please be reminded of food safety, and
 preventing foodborne illness.

  * Wash ALL fresh produce thoroughly. When preparing
    lettuce, break into pieces - then wash.

  * Cook foods to the required minimum cooking temperatures:
     - 165 F > Poultry, poultry stuffing, and stuffed meat.
     - 158 F > Ground Beef, fish, and seafood.
     - 150 F > Pork and food containing pork.
     - 145 F > shell eggs and foods containing shell eggs.

  * Separate raw animal foods from other raw or ready-to-eat
    foods during storage and preparation.

  * Cool leftovers as quickly as possible. Reheat to 
    165F before serving again.

  * BY ALL MEANS, REMEMBER THIS:
     Bacteria on food will rapidly multiply when left at a
     temperature between 45 F and 140 F. Avoid this danger
     zone as much as possible. More Cooking Tips

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  This Week's Culinary Quiz (Answer at the bottom of page)

      Bologna was invented in the US - is that baloney? 

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  Quote of the Week:

     "Grilling, broiling, barbecuing - whatever you want to
      call it - is an art, not just a matter of building a
      pyre and throwing on a piece of meat as a sacrifice to
      the gods of the stomach."

      - James Beard, "Beard on Food" (1974)

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    UPCOMING FOOD HOLIDAYS:

           May is: National Strawberry Month
                   National Salad Month
                   National Barbecue Month
                   National Chocolate Custard Month
                   National Egg Month
                   National Hamburger Month
                   National Asparagus Month
                   National Salsa Month

            April 25 - National Zucchini Bread Day 
            April 26 - National Pretzel Day 
            April 27 - National Prime Rib Day
            April 28 - National Blueberry Pie Day
            April 29 - National Shrimp Scampi Day
            April 30 - National Oatmeal Cookie Day
            May 1 - National Chocolate Parfait Day
            May 2 - National Truffles Day

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       Last Braise of the Season
        By MARK BITTMAN

  Just when I was ready to fire up the grill, it seemed there was both
 time and weather for one more braised dish. It seemed appropriate to
 honor the season's ambivalence by cooking something I had been
 messing around with throughout the winter: brisket simmered with
 sweet white wine.

  The combination is counterintuitive, but this specialty of southwest
 France - where some of the world's best sweet wines are made - has
 the kind of balance that can come only from combining unlike flavors
 that have an unusual affinity. 

  In this case, the underlying unity is provided by slow-simmered
 onions, which yield their own form of sweetness. (Paradoxically, if
 you begin with "sweet" onions, like Vidalias, the sugars dissipate
 rather than intensify; you must use normal yellow onions.) A squeeze
 of lemon at the end is essential to tie the whole thing together. 

  The dish couldn't be more straightforward: brown the brisket (it is
 as easy to brown as a steak because it is flat), then slowly
 caramelize the onions in the same pan; add the wine and cook until
 tender. This takes time but requires little attention. 

  The only decision to make, really, is which wine to buy. Though I
 love drinking sweet wines from Germany, the riesling grape does not
 pack the same punch in cooking as the French blend of semillon and
 sauvignon blanc used in Sauternes and Barsacs.

  Those wines, however, tend to be a little expensive for cooking, so
 I settled for a Monbazillac, another sweet wine of southwest France.
 It is not only perfect in this dish but also good enough to drink and
 costs around $10 a bottle. (O.K., since you need only about a cup of
 wine, it probably wouldn't do that much harm to use a good Sauternes
 or Barsac.) 

  The resulting dish is nutty and sweet, but not cloyingly so, and is
 wonderful over buttered noodles. You can make this recipe a day in
 advance (it might even be better that way), or easily double it to
 serve a crowd.

  Beef Braised With Sweet White Wine
  ==================================
    3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 
    1 2- to 3-pound beef brisket 
    Salt and pepper to taste 
    3 large or 4 medium onions, peeled and sliced 
    1 tablespoon minced garlic 
    1 cup sweet white wine 
    Juice of  1/2 lemon, or to taste

 1. Put 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet or a casserole with a
    lid. Turn heat to medium-high. When oil is hot, add beef, and
    brown it well on both sides, about 10 minutes total. Sprinkle meat
    with salt and pepper. 

 2. Remove meat to a plate and turn heat to medium. Add remaining oil,
    onion and garlic to pan; stir once, then cover. Cook 10 to 15
    minutes, stirring once or twice, until onions are lightly browned,
    nearly dry, and almost sticking to pan. Uncover, add wine and
    stir. Add meat, and cover again. Adjust heat so mixture simmers
    steadily but not violently; cook until meat is tender (1 1/2 to
    3 hours). 

 3. Remove meat to a cutting board, and let rest a couple of minutes.
    Taste sauce, and adjust seasoning; you should be able to taste
    pepper. If mixture is very thin (unlikely), boil it down for a few
    minutes, as necessary. Add lemon juice to taste. Carve meat, and
    serve with sauce spooned over it. Yield: 4 servings.

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  This Week's Wine Selection
  ==========================
   R Wines Darby and Joan Chardonnay 2008    Price: $10

  Pale yellow hue. Complex scents of pineapple, mineral and lemon.
 Clean flavors of white peach and grapefruit. Hints of acacia in the
 crisp, mineral-driven close.

  Serve With:

  Cedar Plank Salmon
  ==================
    2 tablespoons oil 
    2 jalapenos, cut into rings 
    1 tablespoon garlic, minced 
    1/2 cup white wine 
    3 tablespoons whole-grain mustard 
    1 cup apricot preserves 
    4 (4 by 4-inch) pieces parchment paper 
    4 cedar plank pieces, food service quality 
    4 (6-ounce) salmon fillets, skinned and boned 
    2 teaspoons sea salt 
    1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 
    4 (3-inch) fresh rosemary sprigs 
    1 lemon, zested

  Preheat oven to 400F. In a small saute pan over medium heat, heat
 oil. When hot, add jalapenos and saute until caramelized. Add garlic,
 and before it begins to brown, deglaze with white wine. Next add
 mustard and apricot preserves and bring to a simmer. Simmer over low
 heat for 20 minutes and let completely cool. 

  Place parchment paper on planks, add salmon, lightly salt and pepper,
 place a rosemary sprig on each fillet, and liberally apply cooled
 apricot mixture. Place cedar plank on gas burner. When plank has
 begun to smoke, place into preheated oven. Cook salmon until medium-
 rare; remove from oven and let sit for 2 to 3 minutes until serving.
 Garnish with lemon zest.

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  FOOD FUNNIES: Signs You Aren’t Particularly Handy in the Kitchen 
  ================================================================

 8. You’re the only person you know who has ever managed to
    microwave your hand.

 7. You put the head of lettuce in the highchair and your toddler
    in the refrigerator. Again. 

 6. Your dog begs at the table ... to get away. 

 5. The cable company has blocked delivery of the Food Network channel
    to your house; their lawyers were muttering about "creating a
    public nuisance" and "contributory liability".

 4. Your dinner guests routinely ask how late Burger King stays open.

 3. Top Chef has put out a restraining order on you.

 2. For your birthday, the wife gets you a set of steak chainsaws.

 ... and the #1 Sign You Aren’t Particularly Handy in the Kitchen ...

 1. Standard dinner attire at your house: Hazmat suit and hardhat.

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  TGI Friday's Lemon Chicken Scaloppini
  =====================================
  Chicken:
    2 1/2 pounds chicken breast (pounded thin) 
    2 ounces olive oil 
    8 ounces sliced mushrooms 
    2 lemons (halved) 
    4 ounces heavy whipping cream 
    4 artichoke hearts
    4 teaspoons parsley 
    12 ounces lemon sauce 
    20 ounces angel hair pasta, cooked
    8 tablespoons fried pancetta 
    4 tablespoons fried capers

  Lemon Sauce:
    1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 
    1 quart Chablis 
    3 teaspoons butter 
    1 quart whipping cream 
    1 tablespoon thyme 
    1 teaspoon salt 
    1 teaspoon pepper

  Sauce: Boil Chablis to reduce to 2 cups. Add lemon juice, butter
 and melt slowly. Add whipping cream and simmer on low heat until
 thickened. Add spices and cool to room temperature.

  Chicken: Heat saute pan over medium heat. Add oil and heat. Add
 chicken pieces to saute pan and saute on each side for one minute
 (or until no longer pink). Add sliced mushrooms to saute pan and
 saute with chicken for an additional minute. When mushrooms are
 cooked, squeeze juice from lemons into saute pan and coat the
 chicken with juice (ensure there are no seeds). Add cream to pan
 and stir to incorporate. Bring to a boil. Cut artichoke halves in
 half again lengthwise, add to pan and cook for 15 seconds. Remove
 pan from heat. Add parsley and stir to incorporate. Add lemon sauce
 and stir to incorporate. DO NOT RETURN PAN TO HEAT/FLAME.

  In large bowl, twirl pasta into a nest. Sprinkle chicken pieces
 around pasta and pour remaining contents of pan on and around the
 chicken. Sprinkle pancetta and capers over the entire dish. Garnish
 with chopped parsley.

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  Asian Barbecued Spareribs
  =========================
    2 banks of spareribs, uncut, about 2 pounds each
    3 cloves garlic, minced
    1/2 cup ketchup
    1/2 cup sweet bean sauce (hoi sin deung) or hoi sin sauce
    1/2 cup soy sauce
    1/4 cup sherry

  Trim off excess fat from the thick edges of spareribs. Place ribs
 in a shallow pan or platter. Mix remaining ingredients for a
 marinade and spread over both sides of the spareribs. Let stand
 for at least two hours.

  Place one oven rack at the top of the oven and one at the bottom.
 Preheat to 375F. Hook each bank of spareribs with 3 or 4 S-hooks
 across its width, on the thick edges, and suspend under top rack.
 Place a large pan with 1/2" water on bottom rack. This pan will
 catch the drippings and keep the meat from drying out. Cook
 spareribs for about 45 minutes.

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  Bourbon Beef Tenderloin
  =======================
    1 cup bourbon 
    1 cup brown sugar 
    2/3 cup soy sauce 
    1 bunch cilantro, leaves chopped 
    1/2 cup lemon juice 
    1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 
    2 cups water 
    3 to 4 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves chopped 
    1 (5 lb.) beef tenderloin 
    Oil, to brush grill

  Prepare marinade by combining the bourbon, brown sugar, soy sauce,
 cilantro, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, water, and thyme in a
 bowl. Make sure the tenderloin has been cleaned and the tissues has
 been removed. Fold the tail end of the beef back underneath itself
 so that it is of uniform thickness and secure with butcher's string.
 Place meat in a dish and pour marinade over meat, cover, and
 refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours, or up to overnight, turning meat over
 several times.

  Preheat grill or oven to 350F. When grill is ready, place meat on
 oiled surface and reserve the liquid from the marinade. Cook over
 high heat with lid closed, turning meat often and occasionally
 basting with the marinade. Cook for approximately 25 minutes for
 medium rare. Serve with horseradish cream on the side.

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  Stuffed Bacon Cheeseburgers
  ===========================
    1/2 cup shredded Monterey jack 
    4 slices cooked bacon, chopped 
    1 pound ground chuck 
    Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 
    4 large hamburger buns, split 
    Ketchup, mayonnaise, mustard, lettuce, sliced tomato, onion,
      and avocado, for serving 

  Combine the jack cheese and chopped bacon in a bowl. Put the beef
 in another bowl and season with salt and pepper; use a rubber spatula
 to mix it in. Flatten 1/4 of the meat mixture in the palm of your
 hand. Squeeze together about a tablespoon of the cheese and bacon
 mixture to make a little nugget; put it in the center of the ground
 beef. Bring up the sides of the patty over the filling, making sure
 the cheese is completely covered by the meat. Flatten slightly for
 a nice patty shape. Set them side by side on a platter in the
 refrigerator while preparing the grill.

  Place a large grill pan on 2 burners over medium-high heat or
 preheat an outdoor gas or charcoal barbecue and get it very hot.
 Brush the grates with oil to keep the burgers from sticking. Grill
 the burgers for 8 minutes per side for medium. Remove the burgers
 to a clean side plate while you toast the buns. 

  Rub the grill rack with more oil and place the buns cut-side down,
 toast for 1 minute. Serve the burgers with your favorite condiment
 and any garnish you like, such as lettuce, sliced tomato, onion,
 and/or avocado.

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  Seared Scallops with Tarragon-Butter Sauce
  ==========================================
    1 1/4 pounds large sea scallops
    7 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons, divided 
    2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot 
    1/4 cup dry white wine 
    1/4 cup white-wine vinegar 
    1 tablespoon finely chopped tarragon 

  Pat scallops dry and sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and
 pepper (total). Heat 1 tablespoon butter in a 12-inch nonstick
 skillet over medium-high heat until foam subsides, then sear
 scallops, turning once, until golden brown and just cooked through,
 about 5 minutes total. Transfer to a platter. 

  Add shallot, wine, and vinegar to skillet and boil, scraping up
 brown bits, until reduced to 2 tablespoons. Add juices from platter
 and if necessary boil until liquid is reduced to about 1/4 cup.
 Reduce heat to low and add 3 tablespoons butter, stirring until
 almost melted, then add remaining 3 tablespoons butter and swirl
 until incorporated and sauce has a creamy consistency. Stir in
 tarragon and salt to taste; pour sauce over scallops.

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  Homestyle Potato Salad
  ======================
    5 pounds Idaho potatoes
    1/4 cup water
    1/2 cup vinegar
    1/2 cup sugar
    salt and fresh ground black pepper (to taste)
    2 teaspoons celery seeds
    3 large eggs, hard-boiled and chopped
    1 small onion, finely chopped
    1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
    2 medium carrots, peeled/shredded
    2 stalks celery, finely sliced
    1 to 1 1/2 cup mayonnaise
    1/4 cup sour cream
    1 teaspoon dry mustard

  Bake the potatoes off until they are just done (you want to be able
 to peel and slice or dice them - (don't boil them - this way they
 stay dry and not waterlogged); After they cool, remove the skins and
 slice or dice them as you wish

  Boil 1/4 cup water, 1/2 cup vinegar and 1/2 cup sugar until the
 sugar is dissolved. Let it cool and pour it over the potatoes. Add
 salt and pepper to taste and 2 tsp. celery seeds. Mix gently. Add the
 remaining ingredients starting with 1 cup of mayonnaise and adding
 more if needed. Mix gently - do not over mix.

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  Falafel with Cilantro Yogurt
  ============================
    1 cup plain yogurt
    1 cup chopped fresh cilantro
    1 cup chopped onion
    5 large garlic cloves, chopped
    1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
    1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
    2 (15 oz.) cans garbanzo beans (chickpeas), drained
    3 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup all purpose flour
    2 teaspoons ground cumin
    1 large egg
    Olive oil
    4 warm pita breads, top third cut off
    Sliced tomatoes
    Crisp lettuce leaves 

  Whisk yogurt, 1/2 cup cilantro, 1/4 cup onion, 1 garlic clove,
 lemon juice and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne in medium bowl to blend; season
 with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

  Blend garbanzo beans, 3 tablespoons flour, cumin, remaining 1/2 cup
 cilantro, 4 garlic cloves and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne in processor until
 almost smooth. Add egg and remaining 3/4 cup onion and blend, using
 on/off turns, until onion is finely chopped. Transfer mixture to
 bowl; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Shape mixture into four 1/2 inch
 thick patties. Turn patties in remaining 1/2 cup flour to coat on
 both sides.

  Pour enough oil into heavy large skillet to coat bottom; heat over
 medium-high heat. Add patties and cook until crisp and golden, about
 8 minutes per side. Open pita breads; slide 1 patty, sliced tomato
 and lettuce into each. Spoon in some yogurt mixture.

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  Toasted Almond Parfait
  ======================
    1 cup sugar 
    6 large egg yolks 
    1/4 cup light corn syrup 
    3 tablespoons amaretto 
    1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons finely chopped toasted almonds 
    2 cups chilled whipping cream 
    2 teaspoons vanilla extract 
    2 ounces bittersweet (not unsweetened) or semisweet chocolate,
      finely chopped 

  Using handheld electric mixer, beat sugar, egg yolks, corn syrup,
 and amaretto in large metal bowl to blend. Place bowl over saucepan
 of simmering water (do not allow bottom of bowl to touch water). Beat
 until candy thermometer registers 160F and parfait base is thick and
 billowy, about 8 minutes. Remove bowl from over water. Continue to
 beat parfait base until cool, about 7 minutes. Fold in 1/2 cup almonds.

  Beat cream and vanilla in another large bowl until soft peaks form.
 Fold cream into cool parfait base in 3 additions. Transfer parfait
 to 13x9x2-inch glass baking dish. Cover and freeze until firm, at
 least 4 hours and up to 2 days. Scoop parfait into goblets. Sprinkle
 with chocolate and 3 tablespoons almonds.

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   This Week's Culinary Quiz Answer: No

    Bologna, Italy, is considered to be the home of mortadella,
   another kind of sausage, but bologna is an American invention,
   thanks to Italian immigrants. And yes, the term "baloney" does
   come from bologna, used as a term of derision, possibly referring
   to the fact that bologna is made from the lesser quality parts
   of the animal.

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